Photographing Nungu!

Its not often that one is offered an opportunity to venture into something a little different. For me this came in the form of a chance to photograph the magnificent lodge of Nungu. Nungu is situated deep in the Waterberg and is a photographers paradise. The scenery is spectacular as well as the local forna and flora, so your biggest challenge becomes selecting what to shoot and when? I planned the 2 nights I was due to spend at the lodge as carefully as possible but one things is for sure, with weather in charge my plans had to remain fluid. It may sound obvious but the basis for photography is light, the best being the soft early morning or late afternoon light, however every situation is different and I was looking forward to adapting to whatever mother nature had in store for me. It was with these challenges in mind that I set off for my great learning experience.

Fly-Fishing the Mokolo River

I arrived at around 15:30 and was made to feel very welcome by the staff and Roelof, Nungus head guide. I was lucky enough to already know the property and with Roelofs expert knowledge and his own passion for photography this assisted me in trying capture the essence of Nungu. The schedule was tight and only having 2 nights up at the lodge the weather really had to play ball for me to do what I felt was a good job. With Tripod and equipment at the ready so began what turned out to be a very busy 2 days. Each morning started with a cup of coffee and pictures trying to grab what light there was. The staff assisted and set up various activities for the remainder of the days and we moved from one to the other with me trying to be as creative as possible along route. This is something which does not come naturally so once again I was out of my comfort zone. To be brutally honest, photographing romantic turndowns is not what I would normally enjoy doing but I found myself being lost in the moment, playing with candles and light to well after midnight each evening. A mans got to do what a mans got to do. Along route the weather did not play ball as hoped. We had on both days dull overcast conditions and although this light is often what is required to avoid high contrast, the scatted clouds ensured the range was just out of the sensors abilities. Cameras can only capture a small variance between light and dark objects and if this range is too large, you have to make a choice on what you would like to come out. As an example, you either choose to see the detail in the bright white clouds or the detail in the dark coat of a buffalo, you cannot have both unless the light is soft enough to do so.  We systematically worked through the tasks laid out and where rejuvenated after any successful shots.  3500 pictures and 2 days later and I found myself heading back to the big smoke, exhausted but looking forward to sifting through my bounty!

Dinner under the Fig Tree - Nungu Suites

I took away many learning’s over my time there and although luck does play a large part in a trip such as this, there are many things somewhat in your control and I will share a few with you.  

1. Give yourself enough time, an essence of a lodge cannot be captured over 2 days no matter how good a photographer you may be. The character of a place is revealed over a minimum of a year but when it comes to wildlife this can be longer. This is obviously not realistic but do your best to spend more time rather then less. My next trip , if I am lucky enough to do another, will be a minimum of 4 nights. This assists in capturing scenes with the best light and not having to chose between scenes, sacrificing one for the other, if you are there long enough, you can get both?
2. Equipment, an excellent tripod is possibly your most important piece of equipment on a trip such as this. Low light and slow shutter speeds mean it’s impossible to take anything shooting hand held., a basic for any avid photographer but one that is often neglected with the image stabilizing lenses nowadays.
3.  Lighting equipment, creating soft artificial light is just as important as natural light in some instances, especially for the room shots…I most certainly need to invest in this going forward so investigations into options is a to do for me in the next couple of weeks.
4.  I really feel that a willing and supportive guide is one of your most important aspects in ensuring great shots. He can put you into areas and positions one would not normally be, to get different angles and views of your subject. (Inclusive of putting me where only black eagles or klipspringers dare.) This is largely out of your control but a quiet word with the lodge managers or owners can assist in ensuring you have a guide’s full cooperation. In this instance Roelof was superb and he didn’t even need a nudge. 

I hope this gives a small insight into the challenges of lodge photography. It really is something I would like to do on a more regular basis and hope that some of my photographs may catch the eye of lodge marketers Africa wide? As a footnote, Roelof was kind enough to take a few snaps of me during the course of the work so this will hopefully give you further perspective. Happy shooting.

Fig Tree Lodge

Whatever it takes to get the shot! 

Roelof on the lookout!

Nungu Lodge! 

The Black Eagles of Nungu!

It was a bumpy climb up through the beautiful Waterberg range to the top of a stunning gorge, through which the Mokolo river has carved out it’s path for many a century. We where headed for lunch in a spectacular setting perched over one of the many breathtaking cliffs. There under a beautifully built lapa with showers and a toilet to boot, we enjoyed what was one of the more memorable lunches of my life.

After enthusiastically quenching my thirst with the first of a few cold beers (It was 39 degrees), we were greeted by what was to be my highlight of Nungu. A juvenile Black Eagle soared gracefully past by, not more than 10 meters from where we sat.  I leapt to my feet and quickly moved to the edge for a better view of this most elegant of Eagles. After a few extended cries for Mom and Dad they quickly appeared from behind an outcrop, effortlessly gliding past us on numerous occasions. By this time I had my camera in hand and with hyper drive in full swing my memory card was quickly being depleted. It turns out that Nungu and its Black Eagles are a well-guarded secret, the lodge has beautiful decks from which to view the birds and my experience of them was just beginning. That evening we were treated to yet another feast under the stars on the main lodge deck. The food complemented the setting and we enthusiastically discussed the morning’s plans. A 06:00 departure from the lodge was agreed and Black Eagles where our priority for the morning.

I was up at 05:30 and enjoyed a quick cup of coffee on my private deck. The morning was beautiful and the birds were already in full song. After meeting up with Roelof (the head guide) we headed out for a spot of bird watching. We found fresh signs of a large male leopard close to the river and from there we slowly ascended back up to the dizzying heights of the eagle. Roelof, ever prepared, had coffee ready for us on the 2nd viewing deck. Right on cue ,and with the sun starting to make it’s impact on the day, our Black Eagles appeared. This time it was the adults and they where most certainly hunting. Once again we viewed the Birds from every angle possible. The fly-bys and areal displays kept us captivated and before long we had spent a good hour and a half with them. My eyes always transfixed to the White Angel so prominently displayed on their backs. Once again my camera was put to extended use hoping to capture a small piece of this wonderful sight. One thing I am certain of, there cannot be many other places in the world from which one can view Wild Black Eagles in such proximity and privacy. It really was a treat I am hoping to repeat.

Nungu is a 5 star luxury lodge situated roughly 3 hours from Pretoria on the way to Lephalale.. The lodge offers unbelievable luxury as well as exclusivity and you will be waited on hand and foot from the time you arrive to the time you leave. Each room has it’s own private plunge pool and privacy is guaranteed. The reserve has a healthy population of Buffalo, White Rhino, Leopard, as well as a programme in place for the rarer species such as Sable. It is most certainly a birders paradise so I was in my element. The Black Eagles for me was the highlight of the trip and I can highly recommend a visit to Nungu to see them and the lodge for yourself. For more details go to www.nungugamelodge.co.za or give us a call.

A big thank you must go to Rhona, Roelof and the friendly staff at Nungu for a memorable weekend.

For more picture please visit www.kikuyuafrica.com

* Other interesting info: Named after Jules Verreaux (1807 - 1873) who accompanied his uncle, Pierre Antoine Delalande of the Paris museum to South Africa in 1818 when only 11 years old. He returned in 1825 to the Cape where he worked in part preparing specimens for Andrew SMith and in part for himself. He also bought up large collections and in 1830 brought his brother Edouard to the Cape.

Edouard returned to Paris with many specimens for the family business at Maison Verreaux, at that time the most important shop in the world dealing in natural history specimens.

Jules stayed in Cape Town until 1838 and then returned to Paris and ran the family business with his brother until 1864. He was appointed assistant naturalist , then later director at the Paris museum. he died in paris 1873

Time for the rains....but not just yet!

It’s been sometime since my last blog and things have really been hotting up. The game viewing at the moment has really been fantastic. The combination of the very dry conditions and a few scattered waterholes allow for a concentration of game, which I for one have not seen in years. I am talking of the greater Kruger National Park areas, both Kruger itself and the private reserves adjacent such as the Sabi Sands, Timbavati and Klaserie.  On a recent rip to Kruger there was wall-to-wall game from Crocodile bridge all the way up to Skukuza. This is a trip of roughly 70km, most of which follows the magnificent Sabi River. The river clearly is the attractor and the only really palatable vegetation remaining is around these watercourses. There have been many sightings of Leopard during the mid day heat, an unusual occurrence one has to say. On one occasion we witnessed a young mail Leopard hunting Kudu at 14:30 in the afternoon. The temperature was well into the 30’s so you can imagine our surprise. He was not successful and moved away into the bush, I am sure to try and find some smaller quarry.

Wildogs at their best…

Our luck continued on another trip to Ingwelala. We set off for our evening sundowner and night drive at around 16:30 on another warm African afternoon. Suntan lotion and ice cold drinks at hand we decided to head for the Timbavati river crossing, earlier on that day 2 Wilddogs had been spotted in the area and although a long shot we took our chances. One thing about the bush is that you never know what you are going to see, if it’s not the Wilddog it could be some other predators, a herd of Elephant, Buffalo, you just never know. 

Crackling over the radio came the call that the Wild dogs where busy being harassed by a herd of elephants at Elephant hide. We quickly headed there to find the dogs lazing around but the elephants sadly had moved off. Wilddogs are one of Africa’s most successful hunters; their stamina is their main form of advantage, taking turns they wear down their prey and literally run it into the ground. Once they set their sights on something, it generally is matter of time before it is caught.

We took and educated decision to head out again as the dogs where not looking very active. We traversed a road adjacent to where the Wilddogs may head hoping to catch them on the move again. They have a habit of sometimes taking off again towards sunset often heading out for another hunt. We were out for another 30 minutes or so and stopped across the river form the hide, we scanned the area and through the frames of the binoculars caught a glimpse of the dogs on the move. We were perfectly positioned, if on the wrong side of the river, and moved along with them. Eventually we lost them and continued to a river crossing a few kilometers ahead. Sitting patiently we took the opportunity to restock the drinks, snap a few photographs and take in the early evening stars. Above on the riverbank a few Impala came past at full speed. Their silhouettes flashing past in the last remaining light of the day.  Suddenly up river the dogs came back into view, crossing quickly and directly to the road we had come from. With 4-wheel drive engaged I managed to maneuver the vehicle around and off in their direction.

Scanning with the spotlights we searched with an air of excitement. We were the only vehicle in pursuit as the other where firmly left across the river. It’s all about luck and educated guesses in this game. Finally a call came out for the vehicle to stop, the reflection of their eyes giving them away and heading towards us. In the blink of an eye a Steenbok (Small antelope) broke from its cover and a single dog pursued. The other dogs continued to move around and we watched them briefly before they took off in the direction the first had headed. We again pursued and finally catching what turned out to be the last dog of the group. The speed at which they move is quite remarkable. On coming around the corner to found the Steenbok locked in the jaws of numerous Wilddog, all tugging for their piece. It took the dogs no more than 30 seconds to tear the animal apart. A very quick death indeed and a lot more humane than some of Africa's other predators.

The Wild Dogs had successfully ran it down and were now in the process of sharing the spoils. Prime position once again although a vehicle coming from the other side now had met us.  The dogs continued to feed for a few minutes and when suddenly the ears pricked up and their attention drawn down the road. One dog was even standing on its hind legs trying to get a better view. Remarkably the Wilddogs had picked up an approaching Hyena who must have been a few hundred meters off when their attention was drawn.  One Hyena quickly became 2 and then 3, the Wilddogs viciously attacked their foes and managed to fend them off for a good few minutes. 10 Wild Dogs vs. 3 Hyena is a very even fight and the standoff lasted for some time. Eventually the Wilddogs gave up the last remains of their kill and left the Hyenas to squabble over the scraps.

As quick as it started the Wild Dogs reassembled the troops and were again on the move. In single file they disappeared into and area we could not follow and that brought to an end a most amazing sighting. Full of adrenalin the group excitedly discussed the intricacies of the kill, each giving their account to the action.  It was amazing to hear the different versions of what was the same kill, although we all agreed it was something very special indeed.  My pictures of this event unfortunately did not come out as I had hoped. As proof of how exciting this was, I did not check my settings on my camera and this led to my poor display, just to keen to get the shot. It’s amazing how hard one can be on oneself in these situations but hey….another day, another drive and you never know what will be waiting around the corner. 

Big Birding Weekend - Rhino Post Safari Lodge Kruger National Park

Big Birding Weekend with Doug Wagner Rhino Post Safari Lodge R5 590 per person for 2 nights or bring a partner for R3 490 per person   26-28 November 2010 Enjoy sharing Birdlife SA’s Big Birding weekend with other enthusiasts and our local experienced birding guide Doug Wagner.  Doug has been a nature guide and sought after specialist in Birding for over 10 years.  He is a specialist in the Eastern Southern Africa region incorporating the country’s prime birding localities and has identified and photographed 493 of the 520 species.  He will lead the teams as they participate in the competition. Rhino Post Safari Lodge is set under magnificent Tamboti trees and is built with natural materials – stone, wood, thatch and canvas - to give it an authentic bush feel. Each suite is beautifully decorated and the bedroom and lounge area offer wonderful views of the riverbed. The weekend will focus on maximizing the birding opportunities available in our pristine wilderness Kruger concession and having a resident expert on tap for all game drives and local birding hot spots. With exclusive use of the lodge the activities and lodge will be at your disposal to make full potential of this amazing opportunity. Includes: Accommodation, all meals and twice daily game drives This birding weekend is valid only for the dates 26 November – 28 November 2010 and is subject to availability and Isibindi Africa Lodges’ booking terms and conditions. The trip will only be confirmed once we have a minimum of 3 people participating Contact: Duncan@Kikuyuafrica.com or Call: 012-660-3179

A look back into the Earth's History!

I consider it a privilege to be a member of the South African National Parks Honorary Rangers, it allows us opportunities to first and foremost give back to conservation but secondly it provides a steady channel of educational opportunities.


I was lucky enough to attend one of the more infamous courses within the Kruger National Park this previous weekend. It was hosted by a humble gentleman and an expert in his field...Mr. Clive Webber. The course, titled "Earth Sciences" encompasses geology, geomorphology, climatology and astronomy to name but a few. With out going into to much detail I just wanted to make a couple of points. It is very clear and even more so now to me that everything is interconnected. The basis of the terrestrial life is a direct influence on what is happening below out feet, this is often if not always ignored on the holiday game drives. It's great to go to our National Parks and reserves throughout the country and world for that matter and admire the rich diversity they hold. Understanding what is happening below really completes the picture...if you can, do yourself a favor and educate yourself on the geology of your country and locally specific National Park. It really will round things off and make your experience that much richer.

For more information on Honorary Rangers go to www.sanparks.org and click on the HR link.

Free Access to Parks during SANparks week!

From Monday, 13 September until Friday, 17 September, the country’s body charged with the management of national parks, South African National Parks (SANParks) will allow locals with valid identity documents an opportunity to spend a day at a national park of their choice free of charge.

The week-long campaign giving free access to the national parks will be applicable to all the national parks managed by SANParks, with the exception of Boulders in Table Mountain National Park, Tankwa and Namaqua National Parks.

According to SANParks General Manager: Media Relations, Reynold Thakhuli, the objective of the week is to cultivate a culture of pride in all South Africans in their relationship with the country’s natural, cultural and historical heritage, under the established theme “Know Your National Parks”.


The idea of a national parks focus week was conceived in 2006, after a realisation that a vast majority of South Africans were not accessing the national parks. “SANParks then embarked upon this campaign to encourage all South Africans, especially those from the communities around the parks, to share in what SANParks envisions to be “the pride and joy of all South Africans and the world”.

The feature element of this campaign is the free access granted to all South African day visitors carrying their official Identity Documents. Young persons under the age of 16 will be allowed free access without the requirement of proof of identity. It must be noted that the free access to the parks will not include any commercial activities in the park such as guided safaris in vehicles or guided walks, etc.

“Environmental education and protection is the responsibility of everyone, not just a privileged few. If we are to create a sense of ownership of the natural heritage of South Africa in all South Africans, then all South Africans must be able to have access to such,” said Thakhuli.

“We especially want our young people to take advantage of this opportunity because this heritage will be under their protection in the near future,” added Thakhuli.

“The annual SA National Parks Week has been made possible with support from First National Bank since inception. “In recent years, awareness of environmental issues and the impact we have on our environment has increased greatly. At FNB we recognise the immediate and potential threats posed by global warming and other environmental issues, and have taken steps to minimise our impact on our surroundings, said FNB Public Sector Banking CEO National Government,” Yvonne Zwane.

“FNB has embarked on environmentally friendly initiatives such as: energy saving that reduces the load on the Eskom grid, water conservation processes, paper saving initiatives and encouraging the use of recycled paper. This precipitates environmental impact reduction for a sustainable future through energy efficiency, water efficiency, waste re-cycling and indigenous gardens. Furthermore FNB has completed initiatives such as the development of the environmentally friendly Fairlands Building moving South Africa a step closer towards an environmentally friendly society,” concluded Zwane.

SANParks encourages all South Africans and especially educators and school groups to diarise these dates and plan a visit to a national park nearby.

For more information and activity list visit: http://www.sanparks.org/events/parks_week/2006/

Visit us on: www.sanparks.org
Joining our discussion forum: http://www.sanparks.org/forums/ 
Follow us on Twitter: http://twitter.com/SANParks
Become a fan on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/South-African-National-Parks/20031840634

First death from poisoned Rhino Horn!

THAILAND
Bangkok Star - 18th August

A woman mourns over the body of her deceased husband after he had purchased apparently purposely contaminated Rhino horn on the open market in Bangkok. The source of the contamination is still to be verified but it is thought to be from a private game farm somewhere in southern Africa.

Officials in Thailand are frantic to identify the source, as the powdered horn is sold in miniscule amounts and they have no idea how much has already been distributed thoughout Bankok. Local hospitals are on standby for an unprecendented influx of new cases.

Officials are unable get information as the rhino horn dealers in Bangkok are being unco-operative. They neither want to be fingered as being the provider of the poisoned horn, not do they want to reveal their illegal international sources. It is believed that private game farm owners in southern Africa are colluding between themselves to distribute an effective poison that is harmless to the animals but harmful, or even fatal as in this case, to those that ingest the contaminated horn.

A game farm owner from the North West Province who obviously wishes to remain anonymous, has admitted to using the poison on 4 of his animals. Three of them have shown no side-effects whatsoever 2 months after the poison was injected into the horns. However the 4th rhino was slaughtered and de-horned on a remote part of his farm in the last week of July. When asked to comment on the death in Thailand from suspect poisoned rhino horn, he refused to be drawn into the morals of the farmers joint action. He said that there would be many more cases in the near future as he was personally aware of at least another 5 slaughters of contaminated rhinos in the North West Province alone.

Authorities in South Africa are unable to comment on the "poison" collusion among the game farm owners nor are they able to verify the souce of the contaminated horn.

So what is your view on game farm owners or for that matter South African National parks and other conservation organizations poisoning the horns? People would not be harmed if the horns where not taken illegally in the first place? Is this not the correct type of deterrent? Personally I think it is, drastic times call for drastic measures... Your views would be most welcome? 

Nampak & Honorary Rangers donate bins.

Friday September 3^rd 2010 – Skukuza Kruger National Park

The Johannesburg Honorary Rangers with the valued financial support of Nampak officially handed over the first 182 Stainless steel baboon proof dustbins to Skukuza and the Kruger National Park. The new improved bins not only keep our intelligent friends at bay but also contribute to the recycling process. The bins have been cleverly designed with 2 separate compartments to start the process of packaging separation at source, which is considered best practice.

In his acceptance speech, Mr Abe Sibiya, managing executive for the Kruger National Park, said that the project is a major part of the waste system management service in the park which seeks to control paper, plastic, glass, metal and cardboard wastage for recycling purpose which is the park’s contribution towards sound environmental management. “I am confident that the stainless steel dustbins that we are going to officially receive today will go a long way in assisting us to manage our waste in the park which is also going to provide a learning opportunity for the rest of the national parks in the country under SANParks”, continued Sibiya.

Speaking on behalf of the Honorary Rangers, Janssen Davies, chairperson of NEC Honorary Rangers reinforced the notion that the system installed was only as good as the recovery process which followed. An educational piece is still required to be rolled out to all SANParks staff to ensure the system is effective. It was under these conditions that Executive Director of Nampak, Mr. Fezekile Tshiqi confirmed the continued financial and active support of Nampak going forward. Nampak has a vision for the recycling in SANParks and this is the first step in ensuring Kruger and SANParks operate best practice.

Nampak has this year alone donated R700 000 worth of funding towards these bins and committed a further R100 000 to still be spent this year. The first test bins posed a few problems and this further donation will ensure these are ironed out. An unbelievable commitment to the environment and dedication to ensure the project is a success.

Thanks must go to the Nampak CSI committee for their support of this project and the commitment shown to the ongoing success. A further acknowledgment must go to Andrew Marthinusen who has single handedly pulled the necessary groups together and driven the project. It is members and quality of people such as Andrew that we would like to continue to attract to HR’s.

The project is long form over and phase 2 will be planned shortly. Watch this space.

A final thanks to, Kruger National Park for hosting the event, Mr. Abe Sibiya, Ms. Sithembile Mhlophe, Mr. William Mbasa, Mr Derek Visagie, Nampaks CSI Committee, Mr.Fezekile Tshiqi, Mr Janssen Davies, Mr. Andrew Marthinusen, press representatives and finally the JHB region. 

Various characters and scenes of the bushveld!

On an average trip to the Lowveld of South Africa you are treated to an array of wildlife. The area holds some 147 Mammal species as well as over 500 bird species, phenomenal in any book.  My recent trip during the South African “Winter” granted soft light and a just a few photographic opportunities. Anyway, herewith a few our feathered and furry friends accompanied by their surrounding landscape….I hope you enjoy these snippets.

http://www.kikuyuafrica.com/2010/08/the-various-characters-scenes-of-the-bushveld/

Spring is in the Air!

Spring is most certainly in the air and temperatures in the low-veld are already up to the low 30′s celsius. No sign of rain though and it will be a couple of months yet before fresh new vegetation is available for the game to enjoy. It’s the season for Predators as the bush allows good viewing and weakening game is evident. It also seems the season for breeding as we have witnessed 2 separate  breeding pairs of Lions over the past weeks. Very aggressive behavior shown by one of the males towards us on one occasion, perhaps it was our vacation beards we were sporting causing all the fuss….? Enjoy the Pics and more news to follow soon.

www.kikuyuafrica.com/news/